E-tc reader Wendy Frost and her husband gazed at elephants, swapped rugby songs for curry and gave up teabags for life when they holidayed in Sri Lanka with their two children.
We planned our tour of Sri Lanka to be in Kandy for the Esala Perahera festival - a true spectacle with unbelievable colours, smells and noises. Every year since 1592 a relic of Buddha’s tooth has been paraded round the streets. It is no ordinary parade. We counted 97 elephants all dressed in amazing regalia and decorated with lights. We’ll never forget the sounds of the drums and pipes nor the light from the braziers on the dancing elephants and the way it was reflected in the children’s eyes.
We travelled round Sri Lanka with our own driver/guide – a common and practical way to holiday in this beautiful island. Joseph was brill. He loved the Brits, had been in the army and insisted on calling Sri Lanka Ceylon. He made the trip and we all felt quite emotional when we had to say goodbye.
Our first full day started early – and I mean early – for the long drive to the Deer Park Hotel, a Banyan Tree Hotel. The staff are great and it’s relaxing and convenient for sightseeing, although some of the rooms are dark and pokey. For the next few days we had a very rigid schedule of must-sees: the ruins of the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa, the temples, wildlife watching and climbing up the ancient sacred Sigiriya rock. It was all interesting if maybe a little intense and hot for kids. Our children are eight and eleven but I wouldn’t recommend such a trip for very young children. I have always wanted to stay on a tea plantation and so we took the seven-hour train journey through breathtaking scenery up to Bandarawela. We travelled with local schoolchildren who offered us their curry and rice in exchange for an English lesson. My husband’s encyclopaedic knowledge of rugby songs came in very useful.
The plantation was stunning and in an idyllic setting although the fascinating tea factory tour has put us off tea bags for life. I loved Colombo. It’s urban but small and not too frenetic. And it has a great shop-til-you-drop factor. Shopping was very cheap, especially the DVDs and music. I wish we’d planned to stay longer. Above all, we found the Sri Lankans warm and welcoming and at no time did I feel threatened or uneasy. The children really fell in love with the country. It was heartening to see them tuck into the local food (Jamie Oliver eat your heart out) and my vegetarian daughter was well catered for. I felt that, despite our colonial past, the British are well thought of and this was reflected in the warmth and regard we were shown.
HIGHLIGHTS Definitely the Perahera festival. It was a truly memorable experience and I would not have missed it for the world. This year the festival takes place 7 – 10 August 2006. I recommend you book seats in advance, get there early and take food and drink.
WOULD I GO BACK? Yes, but I wouldn't stay again at the Mansion Nugawela. Ghandi apparently stayed here and I think that was the last time the place saw a cleaner. We loved the 5* Mahaweli Reach hotel just outside Kandy and the Hilton at Colombo which overlooks the Indian Ocean and the Beira Lake. We spent our first night at the fabulous Beach hotel, Negomba. It has uber hip rooms and of the food and service is very good. I highly recommend it.
MY ADVICE It was good to take a tour with such a knowledgeable driver. However these tours can be quite formulaic and regimented and you follow the same route as everyone else. If you are not interested in historical and religious sites, this holiday is not for you.
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